Seal every crack, even the ones that seem too small to matter. Gaps around windows, loose weather stripping, or that tiny space under the garage door–these are all entry points. A few hours spent with caulk, steel wool, and a bit of weatherproof foam can prevent weeks of chasing insects through the kitchen.
Don’t ignore what’s behind the stove. Grease buildup, forgotten crumbs, and hidden moisture create a kind of buffet that attracts more than just ants. Pull out large appliances twice a year, maybe more if you’ve noticed anything suspicious. It’s tedious, yes, but skipping it once can make a big difference. I found a trail of tiny droppings once and realized I’d left it too long–lesson learned.
Standing water is another issue. Dripping pipes under the sink or pooling water in the basement may seem like minor plumbing annoyances, but they create perfect conditions for unwanted guests to thrive. Even plant saucers can turn into breeding spots if you’re not careful. Dry everything out. Patch leaks quickly, even if it’s just a slow drip. You’ll probably notice fewer fluttering wings around the bathroom light once you do.
Food storage matters more than you think. Cereal boxes, flour bags, even pet food in the garage–anything loosely packaged is vulnerable. Airtight containers aren’t just about being organized. They block scents and prevent easy access. After switching to solid plastic bins, the scratching sounds behind the pantry wall stopped. Coincidence? Maybe. But I’d do it again, just in case.
Regular sweeping isn’t enough. You have to get under furniture, between baseboards, and behind stacked boxes. Dust, crumbs, and unnoticed spills build up fast. Weekly deep cleaning–rotating which rooms get extra attention–can reduce a lot of the hidden attractants. It’s not glamorous, but neither is discovering what’s been nesting behind your bookshelf.
Identifying Signs of Infestation in Specific Rooms
Check your kitchen cupboards for small, irregular holes in food packaging–especially cereal boxes, flour bags, or pasta. A faint, musty smell or a fine dust around baseboards could also point to something active behind the walls. Pay attention to grease marks or droppings along lower cabinets. If something seems off, it probably is.
- Bathrooms: Watch for silverfish near damp towels, under sinks, or behind the toilet. Tiny pepper-like droppings on tile or the faint rustling sound behind baseboards might give them away.
- Basement: Look for chew marks on cardboard storage boxes or insulation. If you see smudges along walls–dark streaks from oily fur rubbing repeatedly–it’s a sign of regular traffic. A sudden cluster of spider webs in corners could mean they’re feeding on something smaller that’s been around awhile.
- Living room: Light tapping inside walls during the evening might suggest movement. Tiny piles of sawdust near wooden trim or baseboards? Not from housework. That could be from insects burrowing.
- Bedrooms: If you wake up with red, itchy welts in a line or cluster, check mattress seams. Lift the fitted sheet and inspect the corners. A rust-coloured smear or tiny black dots near the headboard aren’t just dirt–they’re worth taking seriously.
It’s easy to miss early hints if you’re not actively looking. A casual glance won’t catch everything. Let your nose, ears, and gut help too. If something feels slightly wrong–odd smells, faint scratching, small marks–don’t shrug it off. Start narrowing it down by room. That’s usually where answers begin to show up.
Blocking Entry Points Around Windows, Doors, and Pipes
Seal gaps around window frames using clear silicone caulk – especially the lower corners where the siding often separates from the trim. These spots don’t always look like much, but tiny cracks are enough for ants or silverfish to sneak through. Run your finger along the edge after applying the caulk to push it deep into crevices.
For door thresholds, weatherstripping helps, but it’s often not tight enough along the bottom edge. Use a door sweep with a solid rubber edge – not brush-style – and check that it actually contacts the ground without dragging. If there’s daylight showing under the door, it’s not doing its job.
Inspect where pipes and utility lines enter the building. Expanding foam works, but it breaks down with UV and movement over time. Consider using steel wool as a base layer before applying foam to deter rodents. It holds up better and adds friction they hate chewing through.
Don’t Forget the Dryer Vent
The flaps on dryer vents often get stuck open or don’t close flush. That’s an open gate. A simple wire mesh screen, tucked inside the duct and secured with a clamp, can stop insects without blocking airflow. Just remember to clean it every few months – lint builds up quickly.
Check During Twilight
Right after sunset, walk around the outside with a flashlight aimed at your home’s walls. If you see light escaping through a seam or around a window, that’s a breach. Sometimes the problem areas aren’t where you’d expect – I found a trail of earwigs coming in through a tiny cable hole behind my porch light.
Choosing Safe and Targeted Pest Control Products
Start with baits instead of sprays. Gel baits, for example, attract only the species you’re trying to eliminate–like cockroaches–without spreading toxins into the air. You can place them under sinks or behind appliances. They’re slow-acting, which sounds like a downside, but it means the insects carry the poison back to their nests. That’s more precise than blanket spraying.
For ants, use products with borax or boric acid. They’re low-toxicity for pets and humans, but they disrupt digestive systems in ants. One mistake people make is cleaning up the ant trail too soon. Leave it until they’ve taken the bait back. Then clean.
If you’re targeting wasps, skip general aerosols. Look for foam-based insecticides with pyrethrin or deltamethrin–only for outdoor nests. These break down quickly in sunlight and reduce residual impact. Never use them indoors. Ever. It’s not worth the risk.
What About Safer Options?
Look for the “Domestic” or “Low-Risk” designation on the label in Canada. Avoid anything labelled “Commercial” unless you’re trained–or hiring someone who is. Products with silicon dioxide (like diatomaceous earth) can be great against crawling insects, especially in wall voids or under baseboards. Just make sure it’s the food-grade kind, not pool filter type. Big difference.
In homes with pets or kids, opt for physical barriers and traps first. Sticky boards work well for monitoring without introducing chemicals. And if you must use sprays, choose those with clear instructions and minimal residual effects. Never assume “natural” means safe. Pyrethrins, for instance, are plant-derived but can still trigger allergies in some people. I’ve seen it happen.
One More Thing
Rotate products. Using the same one for months can lead to resistance. Try alternating active ingredients every few weeks. It doesn’t have to be complicated, just a note on the box or your calendar helps.
Managing Food Storage to Deter Insects and Rodents
Seal dry goods in airtight containers. Flimsy cardboard boxes or thin plastic bags won’t stop a determined mouse or a trail of ants. Glass jars with tight-fitting lids or heavy-duty plastic bins work better. We had to swap out all our cereal containers after noticing a few chew marks. Grain beetles had slipped through the folded tops. Lesson learned.
Keep your floors and counters free of crumbs. Even a few grains of rice can attract attention. If you don’t vacuum or sweep around the baseboards regularly, you’re leaving a buffet for silverfish or roaches. It’s tedious, but it makes a difference.
Fridge items can also be a problem–especially fruit. Overripe bananas left out for a day or two? That’s an open invite to fruit flies. Store produce in the fridge unless you’re eating it right away. If it’s starting to turn, compost it quickly. Don’t wait.
Pet food often goes overlooked. Scoop out only what’s needed and store the rest in something chew-proof. Leaving kibble in the bowl overnight is risky. Mice will find it. So will ants. We’ve seen entire trails lead directly to a dog dish left in a mudroom.
Don’t forget about less obvious spots: behind the toaster, under the stove, inside pantry corners. Clean them every few weeks. Insects tend to settle in places you stop paying attention to. Rodents too, if they can squeeze in.
Finally, if you’re trying to figure out what’s attracting them–or just want to compare notes–you can check this out: gravatar.com about The Pest Control Guy. He’s based in Calgary and knows the patterns around here pretty well.
Creating an Outdoor Buffer Zone to Limit Pest Access
Trim all vegetation back at least 18 to 24 inches from exterior walls. That includes shrubs, vines, and low-hanging tree branches. Overgrown plants provide direct pathways and hiding spots for insects and rodents. If you’ve got mulch beds right up against the house, consider switching to gravel or keeping a bare strip of soil. Organic mulch attracts ants and earwigs, and once they’re in the mulch, it’s a short trip indoors.
Seal off the perimeter. Install crushed rock borders or concrete edging around the foundation. It helps with water drainage too, not just deterring intruders. Standing water draws mosquitoes, and moisture around the base of the home can invite carpenter ants and centipedes.
If you’re using outdoor lighting, go with yellow or sodium vapour bulbs. Bright white lights attract moths and flying insects, which in turn attract spiders. Keep bins well away from the structure, tightly closed, and clean. Raccoons and wasps both like the smell of leftovers, even if the bin’s been “empty” for a week.
Fences and sheds should be inspected too. Gaps under fence boards or storage areas touching the soil create nesting zones for mice. And mice aren’t shy – once they settle, they’ll find a way inside. You’d be surprised how often a forgotten pile of lumber or firewood becomes a starting point for an infestation.
If you’re dealing with perimeter problems, especially in areas like Alberta, it’s worth reading this: Pest control is a problem within Calgary. It gives a decent idea of what people are seeing around the city and might help you spot what you’re missing on your own property.
| Zone Element | Recommended Action |
|---|---|
| Mulch near foundation | Replace with gravel or leave 6-inch soil strip |
| Overgrown plants | Cut back 18–24 inches from walls |
| Outdoor lighting | Use yellow/sodium vapour bulbs |
| Storage sheds | Elevate and inspect regularly |
| Trash bins | Place away from home, keep sealed |
Setting Up a Seasonal Maintenance Schedule for Prevention
Start by mapping out tasks around key seasonal shifts, since many unwelcome critters become active or seek shelter as temperatures change. A quarterly checklist works well but adjust frequency if you notice increased activity.
Spring Tasks
- Inspect and seal cracks around windows, doors, and foundations to block entry points before insects and rodents emerge from winter hiding spots.
- Clean gutters and downspouts to avoid standing water, which attracts mosquitoes and other insects.
- Remove debris and leaf litter near the house to eliminate breeding grounds for spiders and ants.
Summer Tasks
- Trim shrubs and trees so they don’t touch the home’s exterior; these act as bridges for various bugs.
- Store food and waste properly, using sealed containers to limit attraction to rodents and flies.
- Check moisture levels in basements and crawl spaces; excessive dampness can encourage termites and silverfish.
Come fall, prioritize gutter cleaning again and inspect weather stripping on doors and windows. As temperatures drop, rodents seek warmth indoors. Setting traps and monitoring basement corners can reveal early signs of infestations.
Winter requires less frequent checks, but occasional inspection of attics and storage areas is wise. Pests may still nest indoors, unnoticed, especially if clutter is present.
Document observations after each round and tweak the schedule based on your property’s specific challenges. Honestly, it’s a bit of trial and error – some seasons might demand more attention than others. Still, a consistent routine reduces surprises and costly treatments down the line.
